Cribbage is a two-player card game that has been played for nearly 400 years. It uses a standard 52-card deck and a cribbage board for keeping score. If you have never played before, this guide walks you through every step from setup to winning.

Don’t worry about memorizing everything at once. Cribbage has more depth than most card games, but the basic flow is simple: deal, discard, peg, count, repeat. You’ll pick up the nuances as you play.

What You Need to Play Cribbage

  • A standard 52-card deck (no jokers)
  • A cribbage board (or pen and paper to track scores)
  • 2 players (the standard game — variants exist for 3 or 4 players)

About the Cribbage Board

The cribbage board is a wooden or plastic track with rows of holes. Each player has two pegs. You leapfrog your pegs forward along the track as you score points — this makes it easy to see both your current score and how many points you just earned.

The standard board has 121 holes per player (two rows of 60 plus a starting/finishing hole). The first player to peg to hole 121 wins.

Playing online? The board is handled automatically. You can focus entirely on the cards.

The Object of the Game

Be the first player to score 121 points — the standard target used in American Cribbage Congress tournament play. Points are earned from card combinations during play (pegging) and by counting your hand after each round.

Card Values in Cribbage

Before we start, you need to know what each card is worth:

Card Point Value
Ace 1
2 through 10 Face value
Jack, Queen, King 10

These values matter for making fifteens — combinations of cards that add up to exactly 15. Rank (A, 2, 3… J, Q, K) matters for making pairs and runs.

Step 1: Determine the Dealer

Each player cuts the deck (lifts a portion and shows the bottom card). The player who cuts the lower card deals first. If both players cut the same rank, cut again.

The dealer alternates each round. Being the dealer is an advantage in cribbage because the dealer scores an extra hand (the crib), so alternating keeps the game fair.

Step 2: The Deal

The dealer shuffles and deals 6 cards to each player, one at a time, alternating. The remaining deck is set aside for now.

Each player now has 6 cards in their hand. In cribbage, you play with only 4 — the other 2 go to the crib.

Step 3: The Crib (Discarding)

Each player looks at their 6 cards and chooses 2 cards to discard face-down into the crib. The crib is a separate 4-card hand that belongs to the dealer. The dealer will count it for extra points at the end of the round.

This is your first real decision. You want to keep the 4 cards that will score the most points in your hand, but you also need to think about the crib:

  • If you are the dealer: You want to put good cards in the crib — it scores for you. Fives and pairs are great crib cards.
  • If you are the non-dealer (the “pone”): You want to put bad cards in the crib — it scores for your opponent. Avoid giving them fives or cards close in rank.

Beginner tip: For your first few games, just focus on keeping the 4 cards that look like they’ll score the most. As you gain experience, you’ll start thinking about the crib strategically. For deeper discard strategy, see our Cribbage Discard Strategy guide.

Step 4: The Cut (Starter Card)

After both players have discarded to the crib, the non-dealer cuts the deck. The dealer takes the top card of the lower half and places it face-up on top of the deck. This card is called the starter card (or “the turn-up”).

The starter is a shared card — both players (and the crib) will use it when counting their hands later.

Special Rule: Nibs (His Heels)

If the starter card is a Jack, the dealer immediately scores 2 points. This is called “nibs” or “two for his heels.” Peg 2 points right away.

Step 5: The Play (Pegging)

This is the real-time, back-and-forth part of cribbage. Players take turns playing one card at a time from their hand, building toward a running total of 31.

How Pegging Works

  1. The non-dealer (pone) plays first, placing a card face-up and announcing its value. (Example: plays a 7, says “Seven.”)
  2. The dealer plays a card, adding its value to the running total. (Example: plays a 5, says “Twelve.”)
  3. Players continue alternating. The running total keeps climbing.
  4. You cannot play a card that would push the total above 31. If you can’t play, you say “Go.”
  5. When one player says “Go,” the other continues playing cards (if they can) until they also cannot play or the total reaches 31.
  6. The total then resets to 0, and the player who did not play last starts the new count.

Points Scored During Pegging

You peg points immediately as you play:

What Happened Points
Running total reaches exactly 15 2
You play a card matching the rank of the card just played (pair) 2
Third consecutive card of the same rank (pair royal) 6
Fourth consecutive card of the same rank (double pair royal) 12
Last 3+ cards form a run (consecutive sequence, any order) 1 per card in the run
Running total reaches exactly 31 2
Opponent says “Go” (and you finish playing) 1
You play the last card of the round (total under 31) 1

Run example during pegging: Dealer plays 4, Pone plays 6, Dealer plays 5. The last three cards (4-6-5) form a consecutive sequence 4-5-6 — the dealer scores 3 for a run.

Beginner tip: During pegging, try to avoid playing cards that let your opponent make 15 or 31. If the count is 10, playing a 5 lets them play any face card for 15. Think ahead.

Step 6: The Show (Counting Hands)

After all four cards have been played, both players pick up their cards and count their hands. The starter card is a shared fifth card — you combine it with your 4 hand cards to form all scoring combinations.

Counting Order (This Matters!)

  1. Non-dealer counts first (pone)
  2. Dealer counts their hand second
  3. Dealer counts the crib third

This order is important because you can win during the count. If the pone reaches 121 points while counting, the game ends immediately — the dealer never gets to count their hand or crib. This can decide close games.

What Scores in the Show

Using your 4 hand cards plus the starter (5 cards total), count the following:

Fifteens — 2 points each: Every unique combination of cards totalling exactly 15. Check all pairs of cards, then groups of three, four, and all five.

Pairs — 2 points per pair: Two cards of the same rank. Three of a kind = 3 pairs = 6 points. Four of a kind = 6 pairs = 12 points.

Runs — 1 point per card: Three or more cards in consecutive rank order. Suit does not matter. Duplicate cards create multiple runs (e.g., 4-4-5-6 has two runs of 3).

Flushes — 4 or 5 points: All 4 hand cards the same suit = 4 points. All 4 hand cards plus starter the same suit = 5 points.

Nobs — 1 point: Holding the Jack that matches the starter card’s suit.

Need the full details? See our complete Cribbage Scoring Chart & Guide for worked examples of every combination.

Worked Example

Your hand: 5♠ 5♦ 10♣ J♥ | Starter: K♠

Fifteens:

  • 5♠ + 10♣ = 15 → 2 points
  • 5♦ + 10♣ = 15 → 2 points
  • 5♠ + J♥ = 15 → 2 points
  • 5♦ + J♥ = 15 → 2 points
  • 5♠ + K♠ = 15 → 2 points
  • 5♦ + K♠ = 15 → 2 points

Pairs: 5♠-5♦ = 1 pair → 2 points

Runs: None (10, J, K are sequential, but there’s no Q to connect them — wait, actually 10-J are consecutive but K skips Q. No run.)

Actually let’s re-check: 10, J, K — for a run we’d need 10-J-Q or J-Q-K. We have 10 and J but no Q and no card between J and K. So no runs.

Flush: No (mixed suits).

Nobs: J♥ but starter is K♠ — no match. No nobs.

Total: 12 points (six fifteens) + 2 (pair) = 14 points.

Step 7: The Crib

After the dealer counts their hand, the dealer flips over the 4 crib cards and counts them using the same starter card. The crib is scored exactly like a regular hand with one exception:

Crib flush rule: A flush in the crib only counts if all 5 cards (4 crib cards + starter) are the same suit. A 4-card flush in the crib does not score.

The crib points go to the dealer. This is why being the dealer is advantageous — you get to count two hands each round.

Step 8: The Next Round

After counting, the deal passes to the other player. The new dealer shuffles, deals 6 cards each, and the cycle repeats: discard to crib → cut starter → pegging → counting → crib.

This continues until one player reaches 121 points and wins.

A Complete Round: Quick Summary

Phase What Happens
Deal 6 cards each
Discard Each player puts 2 cards in the crib
Cut Non-dealer cuts; dealer turns up the starter card
Nibs If starter is a Jack, dealer pegs 2
Peg Players alternate playing cards toward 31, scoring as they go
Pone Shows Non-dealer counts hand + starter
Dealer Shows Dealer counts hand + starter
Crib Dealer counts crib + starter
New Round Deal passes; repeat

Essential Terms for New Players

If you encounter unfamiliar cribbage lingo, here are the terms you’ll hear most often:

  • Pone: The non-dealer. Always plays and counts first.
  • Crib: The 4 discarded cards scored by the dealer.
  • Starter (Turn-up): The shared card cut after discarding.
  • Pegging: The phase where players alternate playing cards toward 31.
  • The Show: The phase where players count their hands.
  • Nibs: Jack turned as starter — 2 points to the dealer.
  • Nobs: Holding the Jack matching the starter’s suit — 1 point.
  • Go: Said when you cannot play without exceeding 31.
  • Skunk: Winning when your opponent hasn’t passed the 90-point mark.
  • Stink Hole: Hole 120 — one point from winning. Players on the stink hole cannot score certain points in some house rules.
  • Muggins: Optional rule where opponents can claim points you miss during counting.

For a complete list of cribbage terminology, see our Cribbage Glossary.

Tips for Your First Few Games

1. Let the Game Score for You (Online)

If you are playing cribbage online, the scoring is automatic. This is the best way to learn — you’ll see what combinations score points in real-time and start recognizing patterns.

2. Focus on Fifteens First

Fifteens are the most common source of points. Get comfortable spotting them: 5+10, 5+J, 5+Q, 5+K, 6+9, 7+8. Any card plus a 5 and a face card is a fifteen.

3. Keep 5s When You Can

The 5 is the most valuable card in cribbage. It pairs with every 10-value card (10, J, Q, K) to make 15, and there are sixteen 10-value cards in the deck. A 5 in your hand almost always contributes points.

4. Don’t Lead a 5 During Pegging

If you play a 5 first, your opponent can play any 10-value card to make 15 and score 2 points. Lead with cards that make it harder for your opponent to score.

5. Remember the Counting Order

The non-dealer counts first. In a close game, this matters. If both players are near 121, the pone has the advantage of counting before the dealer.

6. Pay Attention to the Starter Card

The starter is worth checking before you count. It might complete a run, add a fifteen, or give you nobs. Don’t rush — count carefully.

Common Beginner Mistakes

Mistake Why It’s Wrong
Counting a 3-card flush Flushes require all 4 hand cards to match
Forgetting to count the starter The starter is your 5th card — always include it
Miscounting runs with duplicate cards 3-3-4-5 has TWO runs of 3, not one
Discarding 5s to opponent’s crib 5s are the most valuable crib card
Not saying “Go” when you can’t play You must say Go — you can’t just wait
Counting a 4-card crib flush Crib flushes require all 5 cards same suit

What to Learn Next

Once you’re comfortable with the rules, the natural next steps are:

  1. Scoring reference — Learn to count hands faster and more accurately
  2. Basic strategy — Start making smarter decisions about what to keep and discard
  3. Pegging strategy — Improve your play during the pegging phase

Playing with three people? The rules change in interesting ways — see our guide to three-player cribbage rules for the full breakdown. And once you’re comfortable with basic scoring, learn about skunks and corners to understand tournament-style play and board landmarks.

If you enjoy cribbage and are curious how it stacks up against other classic card games, check out our cribbage vs gin rummy comparison to see how the two games differ in strategy and scoring.

Cribbage rewards experience. Every game teaches you something — a new counting pattern, a discard you hadn’t considered, a pegging trap you fell into. That’s what makes it one of the most enduring card games in history.

Frequently Asked Questions

How long does a game of cribbage take?

A standard 121-point game between two players takes about 20 to 30 minutes. Online games tend to be faster (10–15 minutes) because scoring is automatic and there is no physical shuffling.

Can I play cribbage with more than 2 people?

Yes. Three-player cribbage deals 5 cards each (plus 1 to the crib), and each player discards 1 card to the crib. Four-player cribbage is played in partnerships of two. See our Three-Player Cribbage Rules for the full variant rules.

What is the best hand in cribbage?

The highest possible hand is 29 points — three 5s and a Jack, with the fourth 5 (matching the Jack’s suit) as the starter. It scores 16 points in fifteens, 12 for four-of-a-kind, and 1 for nobs. The odds are about 1 in 216,580. Learn more in our Best Cribbage Hands guide.

Is cribbage hard to learn?

The basic rules take about 10 minutes to understand. Scoring takes a few games of practice to count confidently. The strategy — what to discard, how to peg, when to play offensively or defensively — takes much longer to develop. Most players say cribbage is “easy to learn, difficult to master.”

Do I need a cribbage board to play?

No. A cribbage board is traditional and convenient (the leapfrog pegging system makes it easy to verify scores), but you can track scores with pen and paper, a phone app, or play online where scoring is handled automatically.

What happens if I miscount my hand?

In casual play, your opponent will usually correct you. In tournament play, the muggins rule applies: if you undercount, your opponent can claim the points you missed. If you overcount, your opponent should call it and you peg only the correct amount.