Most cribbage games aren’t decided by one brilliant hand — they’re decided by a handful of small decisions in the last 20–30 points. The endgame is where strategy matters most, because the consequences of each choice are magnified. A 2-point difference in pegging can mean winning or losing.

Understanding the Cribbage Board Positions

A standard cribbage game goes to 121 points. The board is commonly divided into sections called streets:

Street Hole Range Character
First street 1–30 Opening — establish tempo
Second street 31–60 Development — both players settling in
Third street 61–90 Positioning — where strategic adjustments begin
Fourth street 91–120 Endgame — every point matters
Home 121 Game over

The transition from third street to fourth street is where positional play becomes critical — a concept emphasized in ACC tournament strategy.

Position: Ahead, Behind, or Even

Your strategy depends on where you sit relative to your opponent and where you both are on the board.

You’re Ahead

Goal: Protect the lead. Don’t give up pegging points.

  • Peg defensively — dump high cards early during the play, avoid risky pairs, don’t extend runs
  • Discard conservatively — keep your hand safe rather than gambling on a high-scoring crib
  • Avoid the pair trap — when your opponent leads a low card, resist the temptation to pair it
  • Count first when pone — if you’re close to 121 and you’re the pone, you might win before your opponent even counts

You’re Behind

Goal: Generate extra points however you can.

  • Peg aggressively — pair their leads, play for fifteens and runs, take all scoring chances
  • Discard to the crib — if you’re dealer, load the crib with 5s, pairs, and touching cards; you need the points
  • Take bigger risks — the expected 8 points per hand won’t catch your opponent if they’re ahead. You need 10+ point hands, even if it means higher variance
  • Extend runs — don’t back off from pegging runs; the extra 3–4 points could be decisive

You’re Even

Play standard strategy — take easy points without excessive risk. The player who gets the deal in fourth street typically has a slight edge.

Fourth Street: The Critical Zone

When either player reaches 91, the game changes fundamentally.

Key Thresholds

Your Position Significance
96+ as pone You need ~25 points. An average hand (8) + average pegging (3.5) + next hand as dealer (~12.7 hand + crib). You’re likely winning.
96+ as dealer You need ~25 points. Average hand (8) + crib (4.7) + pegging (2.5) + next hand as pone (~8 + 3.5). You’re in strong shape.
85–95 You need a good hand or one more deal. Positioning matters — who gets the next deal?
Below 85 in 4th street You’re behind schedule. Start pegging aggressively.

The “Count-Out” Calculation

In fourth street, before every pegging round, calculate:

  1. How many points do I need to win? (121 minus your current score)
  2. How many points can I reasonably expect? Hand (~8) + crib if dealer (~4.7) + pegging (~3)
  3. Can I reach 121 this round? If yes → conservative pegging is fine. If no → you need extra pegging or a monster hand.

This simple math should drive every decision.

Pegging Changes in the Endgame

When You Need Only a Few Points

If you’re at 116 and need just 5 points from pegging + hand:

  • Peg first, count second — pegging points come before hand counting. You might win during the play phase.
  • Take every point — even a single Go point matters. Don’t leave points on the table.
  • Don’t worry about giving up points — if you’re going to count out anyway, it doesn’t matter if your opponent pegs a few extra.

When Your Opponent Is Close

If your opponent is at 116 and you’re at 108:

  • Peg defensively — don’t give them easy fifteens or pairs that push them over 121
  • Dump high cards — minimize the number of plays (and therefore pegging opportunities)
  • Avoid extending runs — even if you’d score points, your opponent might score more on the next extension

The Last Hand Advantage

If you’re the pone and your opponent is the dealer, you count your hand first. This is a significant endgame advantage. If both players need 8–10 points to win, the pone is favored because they count first.

Dealer’s counter: The dealer gets the crib, which can push them over 121 before the next round (where the opponent would be pone). The dealer counts hand, then crib — both happen before the next deal.

Discard Strategy Changes in the Endgame

As Dealer Near the End

When you’re at 105+ as dealer, you need roughly 16 points from hand + crib + pegging. This is achievable with an average hand, so:

  • Don’t sacrifice your hand for the crib — an 8-point hand + 4-point crib beats a 5-point hand + 7-point crib if you only need 16
  • Except: If your hand is weak regardless, load the crib — you need points from somewhere

As Pone Near the End

When you’re the pone at 110+, you need ~11 points from pegging + hand:

  • Keep your highest-scoring hand — don’t worry about what you’re throwing to opponent’s crib
  • Maximize fifteens — they’re the most reliable source of points
  • Consider flush potential — in the endgame, a flush is worth chasing because you need every point

Denial Play

Sometimes the best endgame strategy isn’t about scoring — it’s about preventing your opponent from scoring.

Denial Pegging

  • Lead cards that make it hard for your opponent to reach 15
  • Play low cards to keep the count awkward (13, 14, 22, 23 — counts where 15 and 31 are hard to reach)
  • Don’t pair the opponent’s lead — they may be baiting you while holding a third for pair royal

Denial Discarding (to Opponent’s Crib)

When your opponent needs their crib to count out:

  • Discard the most “dead” combination possible: K-A, Q-A, or K-9
  • Never discard a 5, even if it hurts your hand
  • Avoid consecutive cards (prevent runs in the crib)
  • Avoid pairs (don’t give free points)

Common Endgame Mistakes

Mistake Why It’s Wrong
Ignoring board position Playing generic strategy when you should be adjusting for the score
Pegging aggressively when ahead You’re risking your lead for points you don’t need
Pegging passively when behind You can’t catch up without extra pegging points
Forgetting who counts first As pone, you might count out before the dealer — adjust your risk accordingly
Not doing the count-out math You should know how many points you need before every play phase

Understanding skunks and board corners helps you assess whether to push for a skunk or play it safe in the closing streets. Knowing exactly where each threshold sits on the board gives your endgame decisions a concrete target.

Frequently Asked Questions

When does the endgame start in cribbage?

Most players consider the endgame to begin at third street (around 61–90 points), with decisions becoming critical in fourth street (91–120). However, board position awareness should start from the very first hand — early leads or deficits compound throughout the game.

How do I know if I should peg aggressively or defensively?

Do the count-out math. If your expected points (hand + pegging + crib if dealer) will get you to 121, peg defensively to avoid giving your opponent free points. If your expected points fall short, peg aggressively to make up the gap.

Does the deal matter in the endgame?

Enormously. The dealer has a roughly 5-point advantage per round (crib + nibs potential). Reaching fourth street as the dealer is significantly better than reaching it as the pone. This is why tight games often hinge on which player gets the deal at the right time.

What if we’re both close to 121?

When both players are within striking distance, counting order decides. The player who counts first (the pone) wins if both would count out. This makes the pone position extremely powerful in the late endgame. If you’re the dealer in this situation, you need to either peg out during the play or prevent your opponent from counting enough.